Shall I continue to have gel nails?

What is HEMA?

Recently, a lot of reports have sparked a concern for gel nails and are circulating within the BBC media.

The ingredient that is being questioned as to whether or not it is 'safe' is called Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate (HEMA), which is a monomer (a molecule) that forms bonds with other monomers, allowing for an adhesion onto the nail plate that promotes long lasting manicures.

Within the cosmetics industry health and safety grading, a safe amount of HEMA is 30% and all branded products within professional use of salons will adhere to this percentage.

Where is the problem with increasing allergies and infection coming from?

During Covid, people were unable to have any beauty treatments, causing a rise in DIY manicures. Many products that you can find online are a fraction of the price of a manicure, however, not all brands will be regulating the percentage of HEMA, and when paired with being used without nail anatomy training or knowledge on the level of watts within a UV lamp that is required, people started to notice drastic changes to their nails condition. Allergies are a very normal reaction of your body reacting to something that doesn't agree with it. In this circumstance, it's due to the chemical reaction from a higher percentage of HEMA.

Where else is HEMA found?

According to the Skin safe website (2023), Hema is not only found within beauty. Hema is also found within contact lenses and dental materials such as implantology, composite resins and parodontology, orthopaedic surgery and reconstruction surgery. Which leaves the question open as to why the beauty industry are being hit so hard with shame for using this ingredient when we are using it safely just like additional industries.

What can you do to avoid an allergy to your gel nails?

• Confirm that the beauty therapist you see has the correct certification and is accredited by the brand used as well as The Guild of Beauty Therapists.

• Do not use DYI home kits or professional products without a qualification.

• Let your nail technician know of any changes to your nail and if you have had an increase of sensitivity.

• Do not pick or remove your gel nails if they start to lift. Too many clients admit this, and what it is doing is lifted multiple layers of your nail, which over time will thin out the healthy layering of your nail, increase sensitivity and weaken the nails, making them even more susceptible to allergies or infection.

• Take a break every 6 weeks in-between your gel sets, this may make them appear weaker or flakier, but its because they are used to having a robust cover. Any use of chemical products, i.e cleaning products, excessive water use, over filing etc will cause a thinning.

• Definitely continue to have your nails done! It is completely safe within the guidance and guidelines of The Gel Bottle products, who use 10% HEMA in contrast to other brands.

• Contact us at Beauty in spires if you have any concerns and speak to Grace.

References

Skin safety (2023) 2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate (HEMA) Available at: https://www.skinsafeproducts.com/ingredients/2-hydroxyethyl-methacrylate-hema (last accessed 17/04/23).